text of organic to go newsletter article
Organic to Go Interview with Carol Head, CEO, Oliver’s
Artisan Breads, Southern California
Although big corporate life was fulfilling in many ways and I was successful,
I began looking for a way to apply the skills I had developed by striking
out on my own. I went looking for a business that I felt could grow,
and a quality product that I could be proud of. I came upon this business
three years ago and fell in love with it. It’s turned out to be
one of the best decisions I’ve ever made.
It’s a tough business, logistically intense. This building is
open almost every minute, 365 days a year. Just to manage that is tough.
A lot of people get into the bread business because they love bread,
which is certainly the best reason to get into it, but often the business
side is not paid enough attention to. I think our success comes by balancing
the business side with the creative side.
We work creatively with our customers to develop new breads. We do
the classics, the sourdoughs, etc. But we excel at quality breads that
are different in style, shapes and flavors than the big boys in town:
Santa Fe Chile Cheese, Coconut Curry Brioche, Potato Rosemary, Honey
Wheat Muesli, Cranberry & Walnut, Cinnamon Apple, Cherry Pecan…
that’s become our niche. Our best seller is our Harvest Bread,
delicious and healthy. A little whole wheat, a little rye, a little
honey, plus sunflower, flax, and sesame seeds, topped with oats and
sunflower seeds. We bake to order, and every night we have to mix about
thirty-five different doughs, and get them out the door. We supply sixteen
breads that go on grocery store shelves that we supply to Whole Foods
and other stores and restaurants. Then we have organic sandwich breads
which we supply to Organic To Go and others.
We also do a lot of custom work. For example, we supply one of the
best restaurants in Los Angeles, consistently ranked in the top three,
who called and asked if we would work with them to develop a bread unlike
the others in town. We spent two months together, doing fifteen different
iterations until we got distinctive bread that is now their table bread.
We have about a hundred active customers, and about half of them are
restaurants. We have no sales force. Our growth comes from word of mouth,
from customers who want something new.
We have to do things differently than the large bread manufacturers.
If they’re doing high volumes of bread with big production lines,
their costs are going to be lower than ours, so we have to do things
better. What we do better is quality of product and quality of service.
They count equally to our customers. We don’t use preservatives,
we use high quality ingredients, and we know that’s the only way
we can win against the big manufacturers. On the service side of it,
if you’re a restaurant, and you open at 8 am, you need your bread
there by 7:30, period. That can be a challenge on a rainy day when your
truck routes are all messed up, so we work hard at service. It’s
the classic small business niche thing. When we screw up, we admit it.
If somebody asks for credit back, we give it to them without questioning
it, and over time we develop relationships with customers who learn
we can be trusted. If we say we’re late because it’s rainy
and we’re sorry, they know that we aren’t making up some
story.
Of course, there have been disasters. We had a product for a customer
which we call “the product from hell.” We had developed
a product with them, a pretzel sandwich roll. A pretzel is not just
a shape, it’s a flavor. There is a reason why you don’t
see a lot of pretzel breads because it is truly difficult to control
and often it all goes haywire. So we had a customer who we were happy
to sell them a pretzel roll, but we hadn’t really talked about
the size specification, the functionality of it… it had to be
five point seven inches long, plus or minus three quarters of an inch,
same narrow parameters on the height and on the width. We couldn’t
do it within those narrow parameters with the consistency they needed.
We were throwing out sixty percent of the pretzels we baked …
it went on for three months, our era of pretzel hell. Horrible! I finally
had to call them and give them two months notice and said we just can’t
do this. They said “well, why not, we love the pretzels?”
and I said because we throw away more than we send and we’re losing
money -. This was early in my business ownership and I hadn’t
learned that you can’t promise product consistency with a pretzel…
just too hard to do. They continue as one of our largest customers and
have a great relationship, but that was a difficult learning experience
for us.
Everybody seems to have a bread story, a bread memory. Flour, water,
salt… that’s what makes bread. Other than flavors for particular
breads, that’s it. Sounds simple. Historians say that bread baking
is the second oldest profession, and I believe it. Every culture has
bread, and it has so many religious, spiritual connotations… “man
does not live on bread alone,” it’s the “staff of
life,” it’s the “symbol of Christ” – it’s
really a product with a lot of emotional and spiritual ties for people,
and that’s kind of neat. Smell memories are stronger than touch
memories or visual memories, and people will tell me they can remember
the smell from the little bread bakery three blocks away when they were
six years old.
To combine business with the art of baking, to apply what I learned
in corporate culture into a product that I’m proud of and have
it work is deeply rewarding.